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Fleur de Sel, French Gourmet Salt

The flower of salts

Fleur de Sel

literally translates as Flower of Salt and is hand harvested sea salt.

The name ‘Fleur’ arose because the salt has a slight scent of violets as it dries. ;

Traditional harvesting, time and labor consuming

Workers (known as Paludiers) collect or scrape only the top layer before it sinks to the bottom of the larger salt pans.

Tradtionally, Fleur de Sel is harvested by hand in Guérande off the coast of Brittany. It is slightly gray because of the presence of minerals collected in the harvesting process.

Other countries today produce Fleur de Sel, known for example in Portugal as ‘Flor do Sal’ (Portuguese Fleur de Sel is white).

Other well known Fleur de Sel

come from The Camargue, in the South of France.

Fleur de Sel from the Ile de Re, also off the Atlantic coast in France, is another well known salt, and also snowy white, like Portuguese Flor do Sal.

Fleur de Sel is not inexpensive, but it is sought after by chefs throughout the world for its taste and consistency. The naturaly rich flavor enhances grilled meats, fish and vegetables. Sprinkle lightly as a finishing touch on salads or appetizers. Many companies are now producing Fleur de Sel with added flavorings, herbs and spices.

While any sea salt is tastier than regular supermarket salt, it’s the particular type, region and maker that will distinguish the truly fine and outstanding salts. Each region will produce a salt with a unique taste or texture as well as color. Some examples include Himalayan Pink salts, Madagascar Diamond Salts, Hawaiian Red and Black salts. Fleur de Sel is but one of the wonderful gourmet salts appearing at a table near you.

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October 14, 2007   Comments Off

French Gourmet Mustard

Introduction

Mustard grains were known in Antiquity, the Chinese grew mustard over 3,000 years ago! Ancient Mediterranean cultures used mustard. Egyptians, Greeks and Romans used it to enhance meats and fish. Grains were crushed and mixed with the good.

  • Apparently the Romans brought mustard with them when they colonized Gaul, present day France (and Belgium, parts of Germany etc).
  • Later, Charlemagne (Charles the Great) recommended growing this spice in all his territories, including the gardens around monasteries around Paris.
  • Mustard cultivation spread progressively to Germany and then to England. Northern Europeans believed that sprinking a few grains of mustard around ones’ house would keep evil spirits away.
  • The origins of the term ‘mustard’ possibly comes from 2 latin words (‘Mustum Ardens’) which means ‘spicy must’. Mustard was always used with must (non fermented grape juice). The word then transited to ‘mustard’ in English. Other possible origins would refer to the Duke Philippe the Brave, Duke of Burgundy who in 1382 gave the city of Dijon various privileges, among which the right to bear arms with his motto ‘Moult me tarde’ but this does not seem likely. At least it does show that Dijon was already then quite famous for mustard as early as the 14th Century.
  • In 1390 mustard production was codified and anyone who tried making ‘bad’ mustard would be heavily fined. In large cities, door to door merchants would go selling this mustard as ‘Hellish sauces and spices’.
  • Pharmacists and apothecaries at the time apparenly raked in riches by mixing a complicated potion of mustard grains, ginger and mint, that was given to wives by their husbands in the hopes of making them receptive to their spouses!
  • Two centuries later, the Corporation of Vinegar and Mustard makers’ of the city of Dijon came to be. Their imagination enables us to enjoy the different types known today. The golden age of spices was the Renaissance, mustard was part of all banquets and it is mentioned among others in Rabelais’ literature.
  • Throughout the centuries it became synonymous of refinement and enjoyment. The fine and flavored mustards appeared.
  • In the early 19th Century, rival manufacturers vied to create new recipes and variations, encouraged famous gourmands of the day.
  • Production techniques evolved with the Industrial Revolution. Artisan technique progressively disappeared and manufacturing was automated: a machine crushed, sifts and purees the grains. Factories were born.
  • In the 20th century, rules became stricter and codified. A law passed in 1937 defined the manufacturing process and how mustards were called. A further update and modernisation of this law was passed in July 2000.
  • Moutarde de Meaux (Meaux Mustard)

    • Meaux is 60km (about 38 miles) East of Paris. It is the capital of the Seine et Marne (Dept 77) and has 70,000 inhabitants.
    • Historically, the city has evolved along with the Marne, the river it was built on. Back in Charlemagne’s day (see above), monasteries were required to cultivate mustard. He protected the mills belonging to the clergy, as well as the quarries.
    • As early as the 18th century, many mustard factories were counted. Some manufacturers had their own mills, other were specialised in cultivation and sold the wheat to artisants who made mustards for both eating and for medical and pharmaceutical use.
    • Mustard consumption was booming since it hid the flavor of not-too-fresh food (!)
    • In 1771 we find traces of mustard manufacturers in Meaux who replaced the clergy and were already quite industrialized in their production.
    • J.D. Pommery was in business already, running a milling stone quarry. He inherited the secret of the Meaux Mustard and in 1890 the Pommery Family was the only one left manufacturing mustard. In 1925 the factory is no longer in family hands and enters modern production times.
    • Today Pommery Meaux Mustard is made according to the same recipe as in the past. Ingredients are carefully selected for their qualities. This gives the product a quality that many tried to copy. Everything counts, up to the cork used in the jars.

    Different types of mustard

    • Mustard belongs to the Cruciferous plant family. There are dozens of species worldwide, but the three main ones and best known are black, white and brown.
    • Black Mustard (Brassica Nigra) has had furry leaves. It grows to about 3 feet and has yellow flowers and a round red seed. The seed turns black which explains the name. Black Mustard is rich and spicy and often used for poultices.
    • White mustard (Sinapis Alba) gows to 3 to 5 feet. It has larger yellow flowers and the seed is pale yellow. The taste is bitter and less pungent.
    • Brown mustard (Brassica juncea) is a stronger plant, with round brown seeds and is used in the mustard industry.

    Dijon Mustard

    • The Burgundy region is ideal for mustard. It is a wine-production region and ideally situaed to provide the wine and vinegar needed for mustard production. The fabled Burgundy Duchy of the Middle Ages was known for gourmants and big meat eaters and this mustard was present at every meal.
    • The soil is rich is potash, which is essential for good mustard. Dijon had an established reputation under King Louis IX (Saint Louis).
    • The first regulations were produced in 1634 for the guild of Vinegar and Mustard Makers of Dijon. Important tenets were Hygenics and Ethics. Manufacturers were required to show their adherence to these tenets.
    • Burgundy is no longer a huge grower of mustard plants, and has been declining since the 1950s. Today Canadian seeds are most often used, although revival efforts are ongoing.
    • Dijon mustard production: the mustard is sieved. The hot flavor comes from 2 ingredients in black and brown seeds which are cleaned, washed and crushed. The flour result is mixed with Must (unfermented grape juice) and white wine. Seed solids are required to be at least 22% of the finished product weight.

    Great uses for mustard!

    • Mustard was seen as a cure-all since times immemoril. It was used as an antiseptic, for digestive purposes as well as for flavoring. Poultices from mustard were used for snake bites. Here are some other examples:
    • Appetite stimulant Digestive aid (it encourages gastric juice production).
    • Gargle with mustard to help relieve a sore throat.
    • Used as a poultice for soothing bronchitis, asthma or pneumonia.
    • Also as a poultice as an antiseptic and/or distinfectant.
    • Foot soak: ground mustard seeds mixed in a bowl of hot water.
    • Antibacterial and antifungal: mixed with oil.

    Above all, today people are rediscovering the traditional quality mustards and enjoying new and unexpected flavorings. Low in calories, no fat, and tastes great, what more could you want!

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    August 31, 2007   Comments Off

    Marseille Soap

    Marseille soap

    Those big blocks of olive oil based soaps you see all over the South of France have been produced for over 1,000 years!

    Production of this famous soap was codified by French law in 1688 (under Louis XIV and his Minister, Colbert). The law essentially defines what Marseille soap is, and who can use that name on a product.

    How Marseille Soap is made

    • Marseille soap is a delicate mixture of olive oil and vegetable oils, alkaline ash (derived from sea plants) and salted water from the Mediterranean.
    • Originally only olive oil was used (and failure to do so was punishable by law), but when manufacturing processed introduced the use of soda in the soap, other oils were introduced to prevent the soap being too hard and brittle.
    • First step is the emulsion of the oils and lye.
    • The mixture is slowly heated in cauldrons.
    • Impurities are removed from the cauldron in a complex filtering process (carried out three times)
    • When to pour and let it harden is a closely guarded secret, passed down from one Master to the next.
    • Marseille is the center of the manufacturing and this industry also spun off a candle manufacturing using by products of the soap manufacturing process.
    • The soap is cooled and cut into cubes and stamps before being set out to dry and harden outside.
    • Authentic Marseille soap is stamped with the name and also the weight of the soap in grams.

    Types of Marseille soap

    • Traditionally the cubes are green or white. The white cubes are usually made with palm oil and the green ones with at least 50% olive oil.
    • Now colored cubes are also available, with lavender scent and other scents.
    • Both types are very moisturizing and gentle, suitable for even the most sensitive skin.

    Why use Marseille soap:

    • All natural and still gentle. This soap can be used for babies and for the most sensitive skins. It is used in French households for everything from laundry to washing faces (and helps sensitive skins for people with allergies, so try it in laundry too).
    • Dermatologists recommend it!
    • Vegetable oils means the soap is bio-degradable and less harmful to the environment
    • Not tested on Animals
    • Economical. Even taking importing and shipping into consideration, Marseille soap is still remarkably cost effective and lasts longer than most soaps
    • Anti-bacterial. Excellent disinfectant.

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    August 31, 2007   Comments Off

    All About Laguiole

    France has a long tradition of knife manufacture and production. Handmade products and traditional processes have enjoyed a renaissance of interest that benefits these manufacturere. One of the most famous regions producing knives is the Laguiole area (in the Aveyron). The area is situated in a rural region of the South of France at the junction of three different departments, the Aveyron, the Cantal, and the Lozère.

    The Laguiole name is famous for pocket knives. Laguiole is a village in the middle of the Aveyron region of France, with a long-standing reputation for quality. Despite knock-offs and imitators, the real Laguiole name still has tremendous marketing appeal. What used to be an implement for farmers and laborers has become a trendy and fashionable item for many.

    Laguiole knives have been produced for almost 200 years. A Renaissance took place in the early 1990s when production was resumed in the village of Laguiole. Some Laguiole designs can today be found in famous collections and even one at he Museum of Modern Art (MOMA) in New York City.

    Throughout its existence the Laguiole knife has been adapted and evolved and met new demands. The first piece that was added to the traditional blade was the “poinçon, the piercer that was used to make holes in the horse harnesses or to pierce the paunch of sheep suffering from colic, to remove stones from horse’s shoes, or to cut horses hair.

    Corkscrews became poplar after 1880 with the emigration of poor farmers from Aveyron to Paris (first selling coal and wood, then opening bars and restaurants, still to be found in Paris today).

    Laguiole is not one single company and the bee alone does not guarantee authenticity. “Laguiole” is the name of the town in the Aveyron region. It is almost a generic name for a folding knife. The two main sites of production for the real thing are centered around the town of Thiers (almost a capital for French cutlery production, 70-80 companies are active there) and the village of Laguiole itself.

    The knives used to be made with carbon steel blades. Steel of course is easy to sharpen and long-lasting. But is oxidizes and rusts, too. Stainless steel is now the material of choice, especially since a European Union law prohibits the use of carbon steel for kitchen knives in public use (eg restaurants). Two types of steel are mainly found. Type 440 is surgical steel. It does not rust and stays shiny. But it needs to be sharpened more often. Sandvick steel is also now often used, and it combines the advantages of stainless steel (surgical) and carbon steel, without some of the disadvantages.

    Handles are found in many different materials. Initially when the knives were first produced, the material of choice was bone or stag horn, the sturdiest materials available at the time. Ivory was used for luxury pieces. Later, cattle horn was used, but restricted only to cattle in the region. Modern day products use new materials, which allows for more diverse designs and colors. Woods of all sorts have become a nice and trendy alternative.

    The knife is finished with a small triangular relief with a bee carving. No one explanation exists for the bee other than it is decorative. The bee is an imperial emblem but some also think the bee was meant to represent a fly. Whatever the case may be, it has become a signature of Laguiole and is seen on virtually all pieces.

    The blade, made of high-grade stainless steel, is stamped, then ground and then polished with over 25 different manual production stages.

    .

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    July 8, 2007   Comments Off

    Glossary of European Vintage Linens

    Blanket Protectors | Christening Wrap | Counted Cross Stitch | Damask | Doilies | Euro Shams | European Pillowcases | Filet Lace | French Sheets | German Aprons | German Duvets | German Lace | German Linen | German Sheets | Lace Knitting | Lapkins | Laundrybasket Covers | Linen Sheets | Mangle Cloth | Over-Towels | Pillow Shams | Plauen Lace | Punchwork | Rollen, Rolle Fein | Sampler | Transition Duvet |

    Blanket ProtectorsBlanket protectors were made to help keep blankets (expensive items then) clean and fresh. They were placed over the top of the bed, so that the sleeper touched the protector rather than the blanker. This top also kept the blanket clean and served as a bed adornment. Rather like a bedspread. Sometimes it would be placed half on the underside and over the top, almost like a sheet, but not all the way down the bed. You can turn these into a sheet by adding fabric to the length. They also make great curtains or wall hangings.
    Christening Wrap This wonderful German invention works like a small duvet basically. The baby is placed inside the wrap and the lower part is brought up over the body and tied with the ties that are on each side. The nice thing is that the whole piece is double, i.e. you can insert a blanket or thin duvet to keep the baby warm and cozy. The opening for the blanket is either in the middle or on the edge.This is a typical European design, found more often in Northern than Southern Europe though, especially in colder climates. You can use this for a Christening, but it works well in a baby carriage or stroller as well – so pretty and soft. For a special gift perhaps?
    Counted Cross Stitch A design was worked upon plain weave Linen fabric by a means of counting the individual warp and weft threads and placing the stitches in even increments over the diameter a number of threads according to the pattern. Counted Cross Stitch items can be easily recognized by the distinctive linear patterns the design forms on the reverse of the cloth.
    Damask Damask from Europe, the older pieces, are of great quality and heavier than we are accustomed to see with modern new pieces. Whether it’s linen damask, cotton or satin, it will be great to use for your more formal entertaining, for the table pieces and you will love sleeping under the bed linens made of damask! The quality is generally much better than anything you can find new, and especially with the older pieces, the more it is washed, the softer it gets.
    DoiliesDoilies are small (usually round) or large linen pieces that are used on all kinds of surfaces and can be one of the most creative items in your hands! A doily can be lace, crochet, knit, embroidered and so on.Don’t limit yourself to using a doily on a small table. There are many other options, and it’s a great way to stretch your decorating budget, and get creative without having to master the skills to make the doilies yourself.

    Here are some ideas:

  • wrap a doily around a lovely scented soap – tie a ribbon around it – a cute gift
  • thread a ribbon around the edges of a doily and put some lavender or another scented herb inside. Hang from a ribbon in your closet or place in drawers
  • frame a special doily – or frame several and create a unique art arrangement.
  • A large doily can easily be turned into an elegant small pillow, if you add a backing.
  • I’ve seen tablecloths made really interesting by inserting doilies in the corners and center. It’s a great way to recycle a damaged tablecloth and make it fun at the same time.
  • A heavily starched doily (or with the same stiffener used to create those stiff bows), with a ribbon attached, makes a great Christmas ornament, like a snowflake. An assortment of them would be a great little stash of gifts for last minute guests, as a party favor or anytime!
  • Euro Shams We sell ‘Euro’ shams, i.e. measuring approximately 30-31 inches square and buttoning on the back (partly sewn flap and then buttons for the opening). The pillow forms for these are readily available in bed linens stores. If you have trouble finding them, I have a list of stores that also maintain a presence on the web, you could order the pillows there as well. You can also use 2 standard American pillows together, although you won’t get the typical European look that way, and it’s a bit messier looking. Be aware that the Euro forms commonly sold in stores are only 26 inches – the larger 31-inch ones are much harder to find.We always have a wonderful selection of these Euro cases on e-Bay, please check them all out. If you worry about running out of beds, use them for your living room sofa for a ‘shabby’ look, or even as a small table cover! The possible uses for these shams are endless. They can be sized down to fit smaller pillows, turned into unusual accents on patio furniture or even used as small duvets for a baby cot.
    European Pillowcases European vintage pillowcases are most often white, and either pure cotton or a cotton/linen mix. They are larger than the cases made in the US. For this reason they make a great decorative statement on a bed as the large pillow in the back (pillows for these shams are readily available in home and bath decorating stores).They also make a great backdrop to more colorful embroidered vintage American shams, or redwork shams for instance. Of course they are also wonderful in and of themselves since they are so well-made and often adorned with embroidery, lace and monograms. They are most often of excellent quality and heavy thread-count and will last for a long time.

    Standard European cases have a partly sewn-over flap on the back with the opening secured with buttons. Vintage buttons are fabric or thread-covered.

    Filet Lace The lace is embroidered on a base grid. The pattern is embroidered over the grid, with a knotted framework. This lovely raised effect contributes to the decorative and collectible appeal of the pieces. The finer and the more intricate the work, the more valuable. Larger pieces are especially collectible and quite rare when in great condition.
    French Sheets French sheets are usually Queen-size or better and come in various qualities, from cotton to the purest and finest linen lawn. We detail in each item what type of fabric it is made of and the grade. The embroidery is always exquisite, and the more a sheet is adorned, the more luxurious it was considered to be.Ancient Egyptians deemed linen ‘the cloth of the gods’. Emperor Charlemagne concurred, decreeing that every Belgian household grow flax. And so for 13 centuries the craftspeople of the Flanders region in Belgium have spun straw into gold.
    German ApronsVintage aprons were often seen in Germany. They, of course, were used often in the household, especially when receiving guests, rather like hostess aprons. You might have also seen (in life or in pictures) those waitresses in coffee and beer houses with their immaculate starched aprons, tied with an impeccable bow at the back (I can never get bows to look that nice!). Another popular use was with dirndls, and that is what the embroidered aprons were most often made for.Blue or red embroidered aprons were often used for laundry days. They typically have a front pocket for holding clothespins, and are embroidered with symbols of laundry and with sayings such as ‘clear weather’ or ‘laundry’. They make great decorative pieces for a laundry room.
    German Duvets German duvet covers are smaller than American comforter covers, typically. The duvets sit on top of the bed, and don’t go over the side usually. The duvet inside is typically fluffy and puffed up, it sits on the bed like a cloud and you feel like you are sleeping under one too!
    German Lace Germany is better known for embroidery and crochet and the lace is not as famous as some of the other countries’ production, which is a mixed blessing. Of course it means the prices are lower, even for handmade pieces, but it also means it is not appreciated to the extent it should be, nor is it well known and understood.Germany had several well-known lace-making centers and these were active until the very recent past. This makes it a difficult task to identify machine and hand made lace since the price is not usually a way to tell them apart. Handmade lace was not more expensive in many cases, so it was purchased quite easily and was not as big an investment as in other countries. It is particularly difficult to tell with these pieces. Often they are hand made, but it’s often difficult to tell and we cannot guarantee pieces are unless we know for sure.
    German Linen Towels German linen is known, and quite rightly so, for its superb quality. Because linen was widely produced in Northern Europe, linen items are still quite reasonable and readily available. A good example is these superb towels, typical of those used by German housewives in the early 20th century, and always part of a girl’s trousseau.Often adorned with a monogram, there are different types of linen towels, some plain and some more fancy. But all are of high quality and you have to feel them to appreciate their wonderful softness and resilience. These towels are great for use in the kitchen, but they are also nice for powder rooms (especially the damask ones) and for making small pillows for example. They are very strong and will only get softer and silkier with use.

    Here are some great ideas of what you can do with these towels, other than use them as kitchen tea towels:

  • use one as a runner (especially one of the ones with the design on both ends)
  • Place 2 or 3 on a table as a long placemat between 2 chairs, in the width
  • Use 6 towels and lace, and create a beautiful tablecloth.
  • Use as guest towels
  • Wrap one around a small gift, for a very special touch
  • German Sheets In Germany, sheets used to be made to be buttoned onto the heavy duvets they used to have (different from the fluffy duvets found today in Germany). This helped keep the duvet clean and avoid having to wash it often since it was a heavy and difficult job. Those old duvets were made of wool, and heavy fabrics. Washing them was a major enterprise. The sheets therefore often have buttonholes along the sides that would match up to the buttons on the duvet.Of course the sheets can be used on their own and are gorgeous just like that. The ‘new’ sets, i.e. the ones that have not been used, do not have the buttonholes, since a housewife would add them to suit her duvets and buttons.

    Sheets in Germany are nearly always single size (for a twin-size bed) since each person has their own sheet – no more tug of war in the night! One very creative customer also said she was going to sew two single sheets together to make a large sheet for a Queen-size or even king-size bed – what a fabulous idea!

    Unless otherwise specified, German sheets are white, with a thread count of minimum 300c and pure cotton.

    If you are not sure of the size you need to have, please measure the bed, and add enough for tucking the sheet in, that will give you an idea of what to look for.

    Lace Knitting Lace knitting or art knitting is not as well known in this country, although those who do know it and appreciate it are avid collectors. These pieces are made by hand by experts and look wonderful, especially on a dark background or on glass for example.
    LapkinsLapkins are French, large napkins meant to go on your lap as the name implies. A very civilized way to make sure you do not spill some delicious sauce on your lap. Fancy table linens usually included these in French households. Most usually damask, and usually linen damask they are also usually embroidered with a fancy monogram in the center. A wonderful way to adorn your holiday table for example.
    Laundry Basket Covers Laundry basket covers are one of the hottest collectibles of the moment. Usually embroidered in blue or red, and with the words ‘Frische Wasche’ (clean laundry) or simply “Wasche’ (laundry), they would be placed on the basket of clean linens. The basket would then be carried either home, from the washing place, or to the ironing place, with the family linens hidden from prying eyes.Today one of these makes a wonderful decoration for a laundry room, and brightens any wall. An easy way to add instant charm to a utilitarian space.
    Linen Sheets Ancient Egyptians deemed linen ‘the cloth of the gods’. Emperor Charlemagne concurred, decreeing that every Belgian household grow flax. And so for 13 centuries the craftspeople of the Flanders region in Belgium have spun straw into gold. This linen was also produced in France and Germany, and was more abundant than cotton. Hence, bedding and night clothing were often made of linen, a luxury to our modern eyes. If you have ever tried sleeping under linen you will know what a wonderful feeling it is. The fabric breathes, and it’s light, yet warm enough. Very strong too (imagine mummies were wrapped in linen too!), it has often come through time with little or no damage.We are fortunate enough to have a great treasure trove of these wonderful old French sheets. Each one is unique. Some are linen lawn, some are linen, some are a linen and cotton mix called métis in France. Don’t miss out on these wonderful beauties, embroidered by young ladies for their trousseau, with monogram, drawnwork and wonderful embroidered adornments.
    Mangle Cloth A special linen cloth that was used to help iron items in a mangle machine (an ironing machine), and this would ensure small items stayed smooth and did not get tangled in the rollers. Mangle cloths are pure linen since that fiber can withstand the highest temperature. Today a mangle cloth makes a great country style banquet tablecloth with a Continental flair!
    Over-towels Over-towels as they are called in Germany, were a common sight in houses in Germany and Holland up to about the 1950s. They were used to decorate a kitchen and to hide the every-day, unadorned kitchen towels. They are draped over the rods with the top part folded over (it is usually decorated as well). They are usually heavily embroidered and decorated with various types of scenes, or with abundant floral decorations. Their aim was to make plain, utilitarian kitchens more decorative. Often you will see them with a Dutch-themed motif, with a saying, or with figural scenes. Our photo album has some examples of them in use.Because of the fold-over flap, over-towels can often be recycled as a small curtain, with an instant built-in valance; a nice added touch. Some of them have a pocket at the back, ready for a rod to be inserted. One the ones that don’t, adding one is a simple job. You can also either drape the towel over a rod and pin or sew it in place – quick and simple instant décor!
    Pillow Shams (embroidered small shams) These darling pillow shams were used for the living room. Of course you can use them anywhere. Just pop in a pillow and voila, instant charm! They make a nice alternative to the pricier needlepoint, and they have a unique charm of their own. We always have a nice selection of these, both with floral designs and the figural ones with sayings and song lyrics.Often the ones with text are taken from poems or songs popular at the time they were made. Usually around the 1940s, 1950s. The songs themselves are often easy to find online.
    Plauen Lace Lace is often named by its place of origin. In Germany the most important textile weaving and lace-making center since the sixteenth century was Saxony (an independent kingdom until 1813). From this lace-making center comes the world famous ‘Plauener Spitze’, named after the city of Plauen in Saxony.The first embroidery machine was established in Plauen in 1881.

    In 1900, the lace produced in Plauen was awarded the ‘Grand Prix’ at the First World Expo in Paris, France.

    The “Plauener Spitze” is a world famous chemical lace which copies with great accuracy some needle laces like the Brussels point de gaze, or Point de France, a French version of Point de Venise.

    The name Chemical Lace, originally called ‘machine embroidered guipure’, but soon abbreviated to ‘guipure,’ derives from the use of chemicals to remove the backing.

    In the manufacture of this chemical lace each design is individually made for each piece. The basic material is a manmade ground fabric onto which the design is traced.
    The design is then stitched with raised outlines, mostly in heavy embroidery, with the tiny fillings done with a buttonhole-like stitching. Sometimes picoted brides are used in the manner of Point de Venise’ needle lace. The ground fabric is then removed or burned out by chemicals.

    Punchwork The term punch work refers to the fact that the design was actually ‘punched’ out upon the cloth with a small awl like tool; then the edges of the ‘punch were bound with overcast stitches ~ when the ‘punches’ were close together the resulting effect was that of a mosaic like grid. Obviously a huge investment of time went into such pieces. One further note ~ I often see pieces of punchwork listed as drawnwork ~ in drawnwork the threads are actually drawn or pulled out of the warp or weft of the fabric and thus the designs are all linear
    Rollen, Rolle Fein, Rolltuch – etc… Rollen is a synonym for items that were put through a mangle or ‘mangling’, the way in which they used to “iron” the big linen pieces)The large machines (mangle) were used to iron large pieces (imagine those very heavy linen sheets).

    Not everyone had such a machine in house, so after wash day the laundry was sorted by size, put in large baskets possibly covered with one of those wonderful ‘Linens’ or ‘Laundry’ covers we also offer, and kept separate by types within the basket too. The housewife (or help) would go to a special service to put the laundry through the mangle. Once smooth, the linens were rolled up rather than folded (better for the pieces) and brought home, ready to be used or stored.

    This piece was used to wrap the sorted linens. If not too large, it would have been used for smaller flat pieces, like napkins or tea towels.

    The words ‘roll glatt’ basically mean ‘ironed smooth’

    SamplerSchoolgirls in Germany, indeed in most of Europe, were required to complete several of these samplers to learn the techniques they would need to decorate their homes and sew their linens. Most of these old samplers are done in red, although you can find them in other colors. These would be worked in school or at home and were graded like other assignments. Up till a few years ago (I won’t say how many) it was still a requirement, I had to produce a number of these things (no mean feat for a leftie!).
    Transition DuvetThis is a special transition style of duvet cover, from the button-on sheets to the duvets we see today. Here the duvet is inserted in the diamond-shaped opening and the duvet would show since it was usually a nice elaborate fabric. Later the duvet cover would become the large envelopes we know today.
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    July 4, 2007   2 Comments