Fleur de Sel, French Gourmet Salt
The flower of salts
Fleur de Sel
literally translates as Flower of Salt and is hand harvested sea salt.
The name ‘Fleur’ arose because the salt has a slight scent of violets as it dries. ;
Traditional harvesting, time and labor consuming
Workers (known as Paludiers) collect or scrape only the top layer before it sinks to the bottom of the larger salt pans.
Tradtionally, Fleur de Sel is harvested by hand in Guérande off the coast of Brittany. It is slightly gray because of the presence of minerals collected in the harvesting process.
Other countries today produce Fleur de Sel, known for example in Portugal as ‘Flor do Sal’ (Portuguese Fleur de Sel is white).
Other well known Fleur de Sel
come from The Camargue, in the South of France.
Fleur de Sel from the Ile de Re, also off the Atlantic coast in France, is another well known salt, and also snowy white, like Portuguese Flor do Sal.
Fleur de Sel is not inexpensive, but it is sought after by chefs throughout the world for its taste and consistency. The naturaly rich flavor enhances grilled meats, fish and vegetables. Sprinkle lightly as a finishing touch on salads or appetizers. Many companies are now producing Fleur de Sel with added flavorings, herbs and spices.
While any sea salt is tastier than regular supermarket salt, it’s the particular type, region and maker that will distinguish the truly fine and outstanding salts. Each region will produce a salt with a unique taste or texture as well as color. Some examples include Himalayan Pink salts, Madagascar Diamond Salts, Hawaiian Red and Black salts. Fleur de Sel is but one of the wonderful gourmet salts appearing at a table near you.
October 14, 2007 Comments Off
French Gourmet Mustard
Introduction
Mustard grains were known in Antiquity, the Chinese grew mustard over 3,000 years ago! Ancient Mediterranean cultures used mustard. Egyptians, Greeks and Romans used it to enhance meats and fish. Grains were crushed and mixed with the good.
Moutarde de Meaux (Meaux Mustard)
- Meaux is 60km (about 38 miles) East of Paris. It is the capital of the Seine et Marne (Dept 77) and has 70,000 inhabitants.
- Historically, the city has evolved along with the Marne, the river it was built on. Back in Charlemagne’s day (see above), monasteries were required to cultivate mustard. He protected the mills belonging to the clergy, as well as the quarries.
- As early as the 18th century, many mustard factories were counted. Some manufacturers had their own mills, other were specialised in cultivation and sold the wheat to artisants who made mustards for both eating and for medical and pharmaceutical use.
- Mustard consumption was booming since it hid the flavor of not-too-fresh food (!)
- In 1771 we find traces of mustard manufacturers in Meaux who replaced the clergy and were already quite industrialized in their production.
- J.D. Pommery was in business already, running a milling stone quarry. He inherited the secret of the Meaux Mustard and in 1890 the Pommery Family was the only one left manufacturing mustard. In 1925 the factory is no longer in family hands and enters modern production times.
- Today Pommery Meaux Mustard is made according to the same recipe as in the past. Ingredients are carefully selected for their qualities. This gives the product a quality that many tried to copy. Everything counts, up to the cork used in the jars.
Different types of mustard
- Mustard belongs to the Cruciferous plant family. There are dozens of species worldwide, but the three main ones and best known are black, white and brown.
- Black Mustard (Brassica Nigra) has had furry leaves. It grows to about 3 feet and has yellow flowers and a round red seed. The seed turns black which explains the name. Black Mustard is rich and spicy and often used for poultices.
- White mustard (Sinapis Alba) gows to 3 to 5 feet. It has larger yellow flowers and the seed is pale yellow. The taste is bitter and less pungent.
- Brown mustard (Brassica juncea) is a stronger plant, with round brown seeds and is used in the mustard industry.
Dijon Mustard
- The Burgundy region is ideal for mustard. It is a wine-production region and ideally situaed to provide the wine and vinegar needed for mustard production. The fabled Burgundy Duchy of the Middle Ages was known for gourmants and big meat eaters and this mustard was present at every meal.
- The soil is rich is potash, which is essential for good mustard. Dijon had an established reputation under King Louis IX (Saint Louis).
- The first regulations were produced in 1634 for the guild of Vinegar and Mustard Makers of Dijon. Important tenets were Hygenics and Ethics. Manufacturers were required to show their adherence to these tenets.
- Burgundy is no longer a huge grower of mustard plants, and has been declining since the 1950s. Today Canadian seeds are most often used, although revival efforts are ongoing.
- Dijon mustard production: the mustard is sieved. The hot flavor comes from 2 ingredients in black and brown seeds which are cleaned, washed and crushed. The flour result is mixed with Must (unfermented grape juice) and white wine. Seed solids are required to be at least 22% of the finished product weight.
Great uses for mustard!
- Mustard was seen as a cure-all since times immemoril. It was used as an antiseptic, for digestive purposes as well as for flavoring. Poultices from mustard were used for snake bites. Here are some other examples:
- Appetite stimulant Digestive aid (it encourages gastric juice production).
- Gargle with mustard to help relieve a sore throat.
- Used as a poultice for soothing bronchitis, asthma or pneumonia.
- Also as a poultice as an antiseptic and/or distinfectant.
- Foot soak: ground mustard seeds mixed in a bowl of hot water.
- Antibacterial and antifungal: mixed with oil.
Above all, today people are rediscovering the traditional quality mustards and enjoying new and unexpected flavorings. Low in calories, no fat, and tastes great, what more could you want!
August 31, 2007 Comments Off
Marseille Soap
Marseille soap
Those big blocks of olive oil based soaps you see all over the South of France have been produced for over 1,000 years!
Production of this famous soap was codified by French law in 1688 (under Louis XIV and his Minister, Colbert). The law essentially defines what Marseille soap is, and who can use that name on a product.
How Marseille Soap is made
- Marseille soap is a delicate mixture of olive oil and vegetable oils, alkaline ash (derived from sea plants) and salted water from the Mediterranean.
- Originally only olive oil was used (and failure to do so was punishable by law), but when manufacturing processed introduced the use of soda in the soap, other oils were introduced to prevent the soap being too hard and brittle.
- First step is the emulsion of the oils and lye.
- The mixture is slowly heated in cauldrons.
- Impurities are removed from the cauldron in a complex filtering process (carried out three times)
- When to pour and let it harden is a closely guarded secret, passed down from one Master to the next.
- Marseille is the center of the manufacturing and this industry also spun off a candle manufacturing using by products of the soap manufacturing process.
- The soap is cooled and cut into cubes and stamps before being set out to dry and harden outside.
- Authentic Marseille soap is stamped with the name and also the weight of the soap in grams.
Types of Marseille soap
- Traditionally the cubes are green or white. The white cubes are usually made with palm oil and the green ones with at least 50% olive oil.
- Now colored cubes are also available, with lavender scent and other scents.
- Both types are very moisturizing and gentle, suitable for even the most sensitive skin.
Why use Marseille soap:
- All natural and still gentle. This soap can be used for babies and for the most sensitive skins. It is used in French households for everything from laundry to washing faces (and helps sensitive skins for people with allergies, so try it in laundry too).
- Dermatologists recommend it!
- Vegetable oils means the soap is bio-degradable and less harmful to the environment
- Not tested on Animals
- Economical. Even taking importing and shipping into consideration, Marseille soap is still remarkably cost effective and lasts longer than most soaps
- Anti-bacterial. Excellent disinfectant.
August 31, 2007 Comments Off
All About Laguiole
France has a long tradition of knife manufacture and production. Handmade products and traditional processes have enjoyed a renaissance of interest that benefits these manufacturere. One of the most famous regions producing knives is the Laguiole area (in the Aveyron). The area is situated in a rural region of the South of France at the junction of three different departments, the Aveyron, the Cantal, and the Lozère.
The Laguiole name is famous for pocket knives. Laguiole is a village in the middle of the Aveyron region of France, with a long-standing reputation for quality. Despite knock-offs and imitators, the real Laguiole name still has tremendous marketing appeal. What used to be an implement for farmers and laborers has become a trendy and fashionable item for many.
Laguiole knives have been produced for almost 200 years. A Renaissance took place in the early 1990s when production was resumed in the village of Laguiole. Some Laguiole designs can today be found in famous collections and even one at he Museum of Modern Art (MOMA) in New York City.
Throughout its existence the Laguiole knife has been adapted and evolved and met new demands. The first piece that was added to the traditional blade was the “poinçon, the piercer that was used to make holes in the horse harnesses or to pierce the paunch of sheep suffering from colic, to remove stones from horse’s shoes, or to cut horses hair.
Corkscrews became poplar after 1880 with the emigration of poor farmers from Aveyron to Paris (first selling coal and wood, then opening bars and restaurants, still to be found in Paris today).
Laguiole is not one single company and the bee alone does not guarantee authenticity. “Laguiole” is the name of the town in the Aveyron region. It is almost a generic name for a folding knife. The two main sites of production for the real thing are centered around the town of Thiers (almost a capital for French cutlery production, 70-80 companies are active there) and the village of Laguiole itself.
The knives used to be made with carbon steel blades. Steel of course is easy to sharpen and long-lasting. But is oxidizes and rusts, too. Stainless steel is now the material of choice, especially since a European Union law prohibits the use of carbon steel for kitchen knives in public use (eg restaurants). Two types of steel are mainly found. Type 440 is surgical steel. It does not rust and stays shiny. But it needs to be sharpened more often. Sandvick steel is also now often used, and it combines the advantages of stainless steel (surgical) and carbon steel, without some of the disadvantages.
Handles are found in many different materials. Initially when the knives were first produced, the material of choice was bone or stag horn, the sturdiest materials available at the time. Ivory was used for luxury pieces. Later, cattle horn was used, but restricted only to cattle in the region. Modern day products use new materials, which allows for more diverse designs and colors. Woods of all sorts have become a nice and trendy alternative.
The knife is finished with a small triangular relief with a bee carving. No one explanation exists for the bee other than it is decorative. The bee is an imperial emblem but some also think the bee was meant to represent a fly. Whatever the case may be, it has become a signature of Laguiole and is seen on virtually all pieces.
The blade, made of high-grade stainless steel, is stamped, then ground and then polished with over 25 different manual production stages.
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July 8, 2007 Comments Off
Glossary of European Vintage Linens
July 4, 2007 2 Comments
